Moab to Denver by Train // Rocky Mountaineer October 2021

Quick review – Great scenery, good hotels, overall a pleasant trip, but a few things I feel could have been better

1) Food/beverage service – slow and cold food/coffee
2) Tour direction – reasons why below

I did the trip eastbound – fly to SLC and then bus to Moab; train to Glenwood Springs, then Denver. It can be a long day with flight to SLC, wait at airport for bus transfer, then 4+ hours drive to Moab. Our guide from Southwest Adventure Tours was Shawn Horman. shawn@southwestadventuretours.com / 800-970-5864. They are partnering with Rocky Mountaineer for the land arrangements this year. Great commentary along the way helped the drive go more quickly, and land arrangements were well organized. Be sure to reach out to them for any FIT arrangements in this area.

We ended up leaving SLC to Moab a little late due to flight delays from east coast guests, then a quick stop about 2 hours in the trip – arriving Moab around sunset. They did arrange food at the hotel – sandwiches, salad, desert – food was good and an added benefit (not included). We stayed at Element Hotel – about 2 miles from the main town area (not much in town, but would have been fun to see). New property in 2021 – large rooms (dining/sitting area with desk) and bedroom. Comfortable and good condition; breakfast buffet included.

There are NOT good local transport options in Moab – limited taxi/UBER service, so have to plan for airport pick up and trips around town. It is much more a drive-in location – 2 flights per day – 1 DL from SLC and 1 UA from DEN. A car could be useful, or staying in a more central location; closest restaurant was about a mile from the hotel – walkable but a fair distance if you are not expecting it.

Monday AM started 1 hour early to be sure we could get entrance to Arches Park (they limit # of vehicles per day – we waited in a line of about 20 vehicles to enter, and there was a line waiting when we left). 730 AM departure; in the park around 815 AM. Amazing scenery – different rock formations with the highlights being the arches. We stopped at 2 different locations for pictures – you could easily spend a full day here. https://www.nps.gov/arch/index.htm

Around 1130 we drove back to town (about 15 minutes) and picked up lunch. Then drove out to Dead Horse Point state park and entered around 1215 PM. You drive up to a vista viewpoint 2000 feet above the Colorado River with an impressive view of the horseshoe bend below. There are many campsites here, and at the viewing area there were nice bathroom facilities and a covered area to sit on rocks and enjoy our provided lunch (more good sandwiches and a cookie the size of a salad plate!) https://stateparks.utah.gov/parks/dead-horse/

After about an hour here, we drove back the same road, and the train was waiting for us to board. Right across from the train siding, there is a dinosaur museum. There was not time to visit, but there have been many fossil discoveries in the area, including the Utah Raptor – largest raptor ever found in North America.

Loading the train was quick after we all took some individual & group photos (waiting for those!) The agents & hosts were all in 1 car which held approximately 55 seats and 2 comfortable size bathrooms. We departed for Glenwood Springs about 215 PM – arriving around 815 PM. After the train attendants were introduced, they started promptly serving individual charcuterie trays to us, along with beverages. They had a variety of wine selections – a couple whites, a couple reds, a rose & a prosecco. During the trip I tried the rose, prosecco, chardonnay & merlot, and all were good quality. They also had gin (Tanqueray), bourbon, vodka, and Bailey’s cream, along with Coors & Coors Light (they are a regional brand of course 😉). We asked about other beer options, and they said they had a couple microbrews, but then never mentioned what they were. I have included a picture of the menu for both days.

Around 430 PM they cleared the snack, and left linens for dinner (we just ate lunch & snack a little while ago!) The salad course arrived around 530 PM, so there was a break. Our dinner showed up around 615 PM; and desert at 730 PM. During meal service, we were given water twice, beverage service 3 times (with the snack, with dinner, and coffee with dessert). The food overall was tasty, good quality and nice presentation. The entrée was hot, but the side dishes (potatoes, carrots & broccoli were lukewarm). Also the coffee they served with dessert was cold; just after they poured my cup, they refilled the pot and had hot coffee. My seat was at the back of our car, so everyone in front probably had cold coffee too.

We arrived the station around 815 PM, and on to the Glenwood Springs Courtyard Suite hotel. Also a newer property located about 10 minutes drive from town, so we again did not see much of the city area. There are 2 famous hot springs there, but as they closed at 8 & 9 PM, and with arrival after 8 PM there was not time to visit. The rooms were not as large as the Element, but still comfortable. Woke up early so went to the gym – small – 1 elliptical that didn’t work, 3 treadmills and some weights – mask required!)

Departing from Glenwood springs – on the bus by 815 AM for 9 AM train departure. Breakfast served at 1015 AM (this time we were served from back to front; entrée was warm but coffee still cold!) It was enjoyable with the different scenery – changing from the red rocks and desert of Utah to following the Colorado River through canyons and fields, and a lot more trees! Saw many rafters & trout fishermen along the river – spent lots of time waving to them. Also views of all types of homes from abandoned shacks up to million dollar vacation homes, and the Roundup River Ranch founded by Paul Newman for children with serious medical injuries.

The lead steward Mike gave good commentary on the scenery, and notice from the engineer when they spotted animals. The 1st day we saw eagle & a pack of deer alongside the tracks; the 2nd day more eagles, osprey, river otters, and a baby bear cub in the river. Lunch service started around 115 PM; entrée was served at 215 PM; dessert at 345 PM (camera time stamps!) Beverages were offered with breakfast, around 11 AM, with lunch, and again with dessert. The train went through 30 tunnels including the Moffat tunnel – 6 miles long (around 20 minutes in the dark). We went through the last tunnel and left the mountains behind around 3 PM, and it took 2 hours to come about 25 miles into Denver. The train trip ended at 5 PM, and after the other guests departed, we had a tour & snack in the Silver Leaf lounge car. This is a nice upgrade and adds a lot more space to move around besides just your rail car and the small space for viewing between the rail cars (held maybe 8 people very crowded, and only 2 could actually see the view on each side at the same time). The domed glass ceiling view inside the rail cars was very nice, but there was always glare off the windows unless you put your camera flat on the glass, so many pictures from the interior have reflections.

Last stop at Hotel Indigo downtown Denver – 1 block from Union Station depot – very convenient to take the train to the airport. Quite industrial feel – cement ceilings, and probably the smallest closet I’ve ever seen (about a 2 ft armoire – picture in files). I had a nice view of the train station and Coors Field, and it was walking distance to nearby restaurants, Starbucks & Whole Foods Market. This was good as the hotel restaurant was not open; they only had a small convenience selection available. The Denver Tourism rep joined us on the train and mentioned 2 areas for food – the Maven hotel – about 5 blocks away – many food court options to choose from; however about ½ were not open, and they required vaccination card to dine there (which I had but didn’t bring along as it was not mentioned!) So a walk about a mile in the other location – Larimer Square – a 2 block long area with outdoor dining & entertainment. I had a nice small meal at Rioja – moderate pricing and choice of indoor or outdoor seating – no restrictions.

I would highly recommend doing the trip westbound starting in Denver. Lots of flight options to Denver; light rail from airport was good; hotel locations downtown so easy to get out and enjoy a bit of the city; and a short bus ride to board the train (currently not at Union Station, but only about 10 minutes away). They start with an early departure, and it is a longer 1st day on the train. But you arrive into Glenwood Springs early enough to see a bit of the town (visit the famous hot springs too!) Same with arrival into Moab – you leave in the AM and arrive there in the afternoon, so more time to see town if you want. I would have liked to spend at least another day in Moab, but we did see some great sights in a short time. A few agents flew into Moab, and did some additional tours – river rafting, hiking.

-Lori